Showing posts with label lonely planet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lonely planet. Show all posts

June 21, 2011

Glory and Tragedy

Who knows this temple's glorious history? Who knows its tragic events?  Even people in  Nara know little about them.

It is Gango-ji Temple in Naramachi, Nara City. This lovely  temple always welcomes us with seasonal flowers. Now, Harushagiku or coreopsis are in full bloom.

Buddhism was introduced to Japan through Korea in 538 or 552. Over whether Buddhism would be accepted or not, the leading noble clans were divided into two parties; pro-Buddhist and anti-Buddhist. They fought against each other for decades. At last, pro-Buddhist party led by the Soga clan won the war. In 588,  the Soga family built the first Buddhist temple in Asuka (then Capital of Japan) and named it Hoko-ji Temple which is the forerunner of Gango-ji Temple. When Nara became the capital of Japan, the temple was moved to Nara in 718, renamed as Gango-ji Temple and flourished as one of the Seven Great Temples in Nara.
Stone carvings of Jizo Bodhisattva( guardian deity of children and travelers)
and stone memorial  tablets 

When I read "Japan" published by "lonely planet" which  is  the largest travel guide book and digital media publisher in the world , I was startled at the explanation about Gango-ji Temple.
"A small temple that is listed as one of Nara's UNESCO World Heritage sites. Despite its World Heritage listing, it's not particularly interesting and probably only merits a quick glace from outside." Oh, No!! (This book is the 10th edition in 2007. So if the latest edition amended its evaluation of this temple, I am awfully sorry.)
Stone carvings of Jizo Bodhisattva and  small  stone pagodas

Once upon a time, Gango-ji Temple  held  huge precincts and was as magnificent as Kofuku-ji Temple or Todai-ji Temple.

The temple had experienced the rise and fall.  The temple had suffered unfavorable issues and repeated fires. Especially, in 1451, the conflagration caused by an  uprising burned many temple buildings including the main hall. The temple did not have enough strength to rebuild the lost structures. People started to occupy  the land of ruins of the temple. They built  their houses, planted vegetables and made paths in the precincts of the temple. This is how Naramachi was formed. The size of the temple was badly diminished. But the temple holds the oldest history among the all Buddhist temples in Japan.

Among gray roof tiles, there are reddish brown roof tiles which are the oldest roof tiles in Japan, dating back to the 6th century. They have been still protecting the temple structures from the elements.

I found the stone called  "Stop Stone" which means the owner of the land refuses us to go forward over the stone. The stone is placed in front of the path to the private section of the temple. I like the stone better than a notice board  saying "Off-limit". If you see this kind of  stone in a Japanese garden with a tea house,  it is to guide visitors along a prescribed route.

Strange enough, the guardian of this temple has been Thunder Deity,  but over the years people started to mix the images of  Thunder Deity and a demon. The guardian really looks like the demon.

Now the temple is loved  and supported by people. This great little temple with the tranquil and cozy atmosphere is my favorite. How soothing !
Can you see it raining?


                      
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